Friday, August 15, 2008

Friday August 15th, 2008 morning in Asakusa District

We got up early and made our way to the China Embassy so we could beat the long lines we assumed there would be. After going through the security checkpoint and having them search our bags and ask us if we had any scissors we took the elevator up to the third floor. We got there at about 9:20 am and were out of there by 10am. Another model of efficiency. We also had all our forms filled out, so that helped. It was pretty cool how they had photo booths to take your passport size photos on the first floor and copy machines, glue and scissors to prepare all your needed forms on the third floor. Nice you did not have to leave to do anything. Picked up a couple brochures on their current Olympic Games only it is in Chinese not English. Cute little colored characters they have for each of the different sports,like the drawings I saw in the tunnel here just below the bluff. :-)
We then went back to the train station and took it up to Northern Tokyo and first explored the Asakusa District and then over to Ueno Park and surrounds.
This area is what remains of Tokyo's old Shitamachi (low city). Once the heart and soul of Edo culture. It has "Ukiyo-e"wood block prints (of which I just realized we saw none ?), Kabuki Theater and the Yoshiwara pleasure district near Asakusa. They say these are the best parts of Tokyo for strolling and observing, and that is just what we did, and in what turned out to be 102 degree weather no less. Just let me say here and now...IT WAS HOTTER THAN HELL on EARTH!!
So we made it to Asakusa and walked first by the Sumida River for views of the landmark gold looking Asahi Breweries LTD building which is supposed to represent a glass of beer with foam at the top and then has some big gold artsy blob ? next to it. Kalen called us right then, so CJ talked with her a bit while I took pics around the river of men sleeping, recycling cans, selling junk, river boats, flowers...CJ hoped there was a brewery tour and free samples of his favorite "Asahi Super Dry", but sadly only restaurants which were not yet open as it was only 10:30 am or so. CJ also had a phone chat with nephew Jacob when we tried to call his dad Brett who was busy and to wish him a Happy Birthday.
As we stood on the bridge in the warm breeze it was bearable, but after we crossed the bridge and went into some covered side streets on our way to the long "Nakamise" shopping lane which leads to the Senso-ji Temple it was heating up pretty darn fast. YIKES! We looked at numerous little shops along the way and then as we saw people lined up in front of restaurants we ducked into a little local cafe for some Tempura lunch. I had veggie and fish tempura with rice, soup, pickled ginger and pickle relish. Most of it was very good. Again the chewy piece of whatever ? CJ ate and I could not quite deal with the seaweed wrapped thick fish of some kind or other. The tempura covered green bean, egg plant, 2 shrimps and some other thin flaky white fish were very good. The clear broth with parsley and onion in it was tasty as well. It was a slam bam serving/eating style as people were lined up out the door waiting to get in.
Back out into the heat and down the very busy and crowded shopping lane to the temple where it was a shoppers paradise. Now this kind of crowd is what I was anticipating I'd see when ever I walked down the streets on a day to day basis. I am VERY GLAD it is not reality. All kinds of fans, yukatas, kimonos, trinkets, foods, key chains etc... were on sale . This is the place to buy souveniers that is for sure. It was fun watching people make and sell different Japanese treats. Apricots dipped in some pink dough and then fried. Another man sat and was hand filling molds with batter,then a blob of bean paste I think and then more batter. He then closed up the 2 sided cast iron mold and heated it. Once cooked he dumped the 4 little baked pastries out and then brushed oil in the molds and repeated the process over and over again. He had a HUGE bowl of dough and it was kind of nice to see it being done by hand and not automated. He would continue to be an extremely busy worker all afternoon, as people were buying bags of his treats as fast as he could make them it seemed. I guess the heat really did not leave us with much of an appetite, as we passed up many different eating opportunities I'm thinking now, as I write this a day later. A good reason to go back another day!
Saw my favorite "Tako-Yori" Octupus Balls being sold by another lady just outside the temple entrance. Some colorful ball game for kids, shaved ice, just about any kind of meat and or fish on a stick ready for the BBque when ordered.
We then entered the gates of the Sensoji Temple. This is the oldest Temple in Tokyo and was said to have been built in 628. The GRAND Maninarimon Gate with a large lantern is a landmark. We were NOT alone here as you can see. There were people everywhere and it kind of took away for me anyway, the tranquil peaceful like feeling I get when I have been to other smaller temples and shrines. It kind of felt more like I was in the midst of a BIG, BUSY tourist trap then a place to worship or remember. It was the height of Obon, so I guess this is perhaps how it was meant to be, but it took me by surprise a bit I will say that.
They were going to have a big prayer ceremony later in the night at 6:30pm and our hope was to go back to it, but as you will find out we walked alot and the heat just zapped our energy. I looked around at all the different parts. The Gods on either side of the gate, the big lanterns hanging in the gate entry,and the 5 story pagoda to the elft of the entrance. The dragon font where people of all ages were busy washing their hands and rinsing their mouths. The incense cauldron where people waft the smoke towards them with their hand to cleanse themselves, and then the slatted large offeratory box where they drop coins inside and then stand behind it as they say their prayers or offer gratitude while looking towards the center alter. There were candles to be lite and placed in a tree like candle holder. Chopsticks in a jar with a number on it and when you shook a stick out of the silver bottle you matched it up to one of the many drawers with the same number. Inside was a wish or message that you then tied to a string after reading it. Other people had prayers or wishes they wrote on wood sticks and or bought another more expensive block of some kind which will be blessed later in the evening by the monks. Oh how I need to find a good book in English of course, that can explain all these different rituals, procedures, objects... to me; so I can find out what it all signifies and represents. It is all quite stimulating to me and I find it very "captivating". Hey did you see how I used a new word. Thanks to Kalen who sent me a synonyms list for Intriguing! haha:-)
Once we were done with the BIG temple I made my way around to all the littler Shrines, gardens,on the surrounding grounds while CJ sat in the shade of a tree. When we were walking to the bathroom we passed a man sitting on a rock ledge and he was sleeping but all of a sudden fell over and took a nose dive right into the pavement. We stopped to make sure he was ok and all was good, perhaps a slight bit embarrased but no open wounds of any kind. "I fell asleep he said".
I once again saw the fox statues and I over heard a girl telling her friend it is like the spirit of this one god. So if you see the fox you know they are worshipping that god. Of course I did not catch the god's name. The next little shrine had a couple of white foxes you could buy 2 for 1000yen. One was a boy and one was a girl. They were sitting up on the alter with some bread of some kind and bottle of liquid. I asked the girl if she had a brochure in English, but sadly none were available. More research to do.
I don't think I made it into all the different buildings, as I was starting to get Shrine overload and perhaps the heat was draining me a bit, but I actually said to CJ I was starting to get the "I've seen 1 shrine I have seen them all" attitude. :-(
I hope it was the heat, cause GOD knows I have MANY, MANY more to see here in the year to come. This is only the beginning!
Hold on a minute my samuari in his yukata lounge wear just delivered a chicken salad to me so I must take a lunch break now...and then I guess it is time for us to be on our way to visit the US Navy Yard for their Bon Odori Festival. I will have to finish the rest of this tomorrow...

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